Huayhuash

Hello people! It´s been nearly two weeks, but I´m back safe and sound from a beautiful, strenuous, rewarding and, lest I forget, long trek in the Cordillera Huayhuash. This post follows a slightly different format than my previous one describing the Santa Cruz trek. Basically, it was 12 days long so rather than give a narrative of the trek I´ve instead decided to describe some of the highlights and then let the pictures do the talking. So, read on for a rambling, somewhat disjointed but hopefully entertaining and informative description of some of my most recent escapades.

First, the pictures

Go to this link. I´m constantly updating the album with more photos and captions when I have the time, so check back even if you´ve already gone.

Overview: ummmm........what the hell is Huayhuash?

The Cordillera Huayhuash is a mountain range within the Andes to the Southwest of Huaraz. The range includes roughly 35 peaks, with six of them exceeding 6000m, including the grandaddy of the range Yerupaja (6617m). Compared to the Cordillera Blanca where I had done the much shorter Santa Cruz trek, the Huayhuash is much more compact, rugged and isolated. Part of what makes this area so special is that relatively few tourists visit even today, although the numbers are increasing year by year. Still, an almost overwhelming feeling of isolation washes over one when entering the Huayhuash and does not disippate until returning to the relative metropolis of Huaraz.

The trek itself covered right around 160km (I´ve gone metric, so deal with it and use the google conversion feature if you need to) and went over 10 mountain passes ranging in height from 4300m to 5250m. The point I´m trying to convey is that the trek is a haul to say the least. The views of rugged peaks and isolated lagunas are indeed impressive, but they better be as your legs and lungs pay a steep price for every memorable panorama that comes your way, without fail.

My health

Well, color me impressed by the concern of my friends and family when I mentioned that I was sick just before leaving for the Huayhuash. Jordana Kritzer in particular deserves a special shout out as she sent me a message so full of concern and advice that I just had to print it out and take it with me. I actually managed to fully recover from my short bout of illness just in time to take off on the Huayhuash trip without any delay. On the trip itself, I was the picture of health, charging up the passes, eating all the food and having relatively (and I do mean relatively) pleasant bathroom experiences. I even managed to sleep all the way through most nights and had absolutely no recurrence of the minor altitude sickness that plagued me in the Cordillera Blanca. So, I appreciate all of your expressions of concern, but rest assured that my body is chugging right along and seems to be at peace with the thin air, somewhat questionable food and physical exertion that I´m putting it through on a daily basis. YAY!

People

Three other turistas, all females, joined me on the Huayhuash circuit trek. Sadly, two of the aforementioned women turned out to be people that I most definitely do not like. You all should be familiar with my amazing powers of judgement, criticism and shit-talking, so I´ll just leave it at that and move on with my wonderful life. The remaining female turista turned out to be a true gem that goes by the name of Alexis. She´s an American hailing from that city of smog, boob jobs and David Lynch known as Los Angeles, and her and I managed to get along like peanut butter, bananas and honey trapped between two pieces of cheap white bread. Nice, in that analogy the other women would be crappy white bread, which is actually a fitting description. Moving on........In addition to us four gringo tourists, three Peruvians rounded out the group in the role of guide (Eric), cook and assistant guide (Gustavo) and burro driver and general assistant (Chino). Besides making the trip possible, I must say that I now consider all three of these fine young men my friends. Now, how about a short introduction for these guys?

Erik: A twenty-six year old native of Huaraz, Erik has been working as a professional guide for five years. He has two daughters, a wife (who is wonderful according to him) and absolutely no qualms about busting into song at any given time. Also a damn fine player of the Andean flute, which he brought out and played on all too rare occassions. A great guide and a genuinely nice and caring person, my life is better having him as a friend.

Gustavo: An eighteen year old native of Huaraz. Although he speaks almost no english, we were able to develop something of a rapport, and hearing him say my name (pronounce as yoy-ee) never fails to bring a smile to my face. Like Erik, Gustavo has little to no reservations when it comes to singing and dancing and many nights I fell asleep to the sound of his unabashed singing eminating from the cooking tent as he did the dishes before retiring for the night.

Chino: A native of the small village of Llamac that marks the start of the trek, Chino is 28 with a wife and two small daughters. He was the hardest of the three Peruvians to communicate with because Spanish was a second language to both him and I. Also, the cultural divide was definitely the widest with him and it took me a while to accept his bearing, humor, just his way of being, and I think that some of the other people on the trip were never able to get to that point. In the end, I came to recognize him as a funny and easygoing guy, despite how hard it must be to make a living and support a family out in the Huayhuash. Anyway, Chino without a doubt one hell of a burro driver and I will not hesitate to call upon his services again if I ever return to the Huayhuash.

So there´s a brief rundown of who went on the trip. As I already mentioned, one of the best parts of the journey was getting to know the Peruvian guides, especially Erik and Gustavo. In fact, tomorrow night Alexis and I are planning on meeting up with these two and cruising over to Palcio de Cervaza, where Erik and Gustavo assure us that we will have a grand ole´ time dancing the night away with a vast number of Peruvians and few, if any, other gringos. Dance clubs really aren´t my style, but for these guys I´m willing to stretch myself. I promise I will keep you all updated. UPDATE: It didn´t happen as I was absolutely exhausted and suffering from a headache. Instead I ended up hanging out with some guys at the hostel and getting drunk on Ecuadorian rum and Peruvian beer. This is what happens when you have no responsibilities whatsoever.

The most dangerous part of the journey

One would think that the most dangerous portion of the trek would actually take place in the mountains, perhaps while ascending one of the many high passes. However, by far the most dangerous portion of the trip did not occur until after every step had been taken, when we climbed into the small Toyota autobus that would carry us from the village of Llamac, where the trek began and ended, to the larger town of Chiqian.

First of all, this was the most packed autobus I´ve been on yet. Picture a Toyota minivan crammed full of 22 (yes, twenty-two) people and their handheld belongings and then place a 1.5-2m pile of luggage on top. I assure you, these figures are not exagerrations. Then put this groaning straining van on one of the twistiest, steepest and dustiest mountain roads that you´ve ever seen, with numerous log bridge crossings over rivers and streams and 100m drops looming around every corner. Admittedly, this doesn´t seem quite so bad yet. When things really got interesting is when the passengers noticed that not only where the roof support bars loose and rotating, but the roof was bulging inward due to the weight AND the side of the bus was developing large cracks that grew with terrifying creaks and groans whenever the bus lurched over another bump or around another corner. Still not so bad? Well, about halfway through the drive, by which point almost all of the passengers had there arms raised in an attempt to lend the ailing roof additional support, the bus driver stopped to pick up a mother and her small boy. Now, one woman had already gotten off, bringing the total of people to 23, however, the woman could absolutely, positively not fit in the bus. So, do we leave her behind? Of course not you asshole! No, she simply climbed on top of the gigantic pile of luggage sitting on top of the sagging and decrepit roof. Now a suspiciously human-sized extra big lump was invisible from inside the bus and we all looked out the windows anxiously with every sway of the vehicle, fully expecting to see the woman come tumbling down from the roof and careening into the yawning valley waiting below. For the remaining 45 minutes of the trip I had dozens, literally dozens of comedic lines waiting to be delivered. However, since they all revolved around the roof riding woman´s impending doom and her six year old son was leaning against my legs, I decided that it might be best to keep my mouth shut lest he start wailing and take all of the fun out of the journey, which I was in all truth enjoying immensely.

Wow, that´s the former headquarters of the Shining Path

to be continued.......

Joey is an idiot and drops his camera in the hot springs

to be continued........

Alexis gets attacked by a puma

to be continued........